Castle Roti. Tuscany
While I was in Tuscany Porcini mushrooms were in season. Along the road you would see small trucks with mushrooms for sale. For such small trucks they carried an enormous payload many of the trucks would’ve been worth several thousand dollars in mushrooms alone. The abundance of beautiful dishes with mushrooms that we sampled included Rabbit Ragu with mushrooms and fried mushrooms in corn meal, two of my favorites. Porcini mushrooms are difficult to find fresh here in the states, we are more likely to find them in dried from.
The classic mushroom in Missouri, near where I grew up, is the morel mushroom. I can remember my grandpa taking me out once mushrooming and bringing back buckets of them. The fact that my great grandmother fried them with cornmeal and lard made them even more delicious. These are definitely food memories that stick in your mind because I was probably 6 or 7 years old at the time.
No matter where you are on either continent you will find some type of fugue to cook and the woodsy meaty texture is a wonderful why to a heartiness to a dish.
Fried mushrooms are as easy as it gets. Maximum flavor in a single bite. Covered in an egg bath and dredged in seasoned cornmeal, fried mushrooms empart a wonderful earthy fragrance and a fantastic meaty taste with the added crunch of the cornmeal.
1 lb. Mushrooms
10 Tablespoons Lard, and 2 Tablespoons bacon fat combo for pan fry
2 eggs, whisked
3/4 cup cornmeal
1/4 teaspoon ground sage
1/4 teaspoon pepper
kosher salt for spinkling
Heat lard and bacon fat in 12″ fry pan, medium to medium-high. Set up two shallow bowls, one for the cornmeal and one for the eggs. Whisk eggs to break yolks, and with a separate fork combine cornmeal, ground sage, and pepper.
Immerse mushrooms in egg batter, and coat in the cornmeal mixture shaking off excess. Working in batches carefully place in the hot oil and turning once to brown evenly. Remove and lay on clean paper towel, sprinkle with salt and serve straight away.
Rabbit Ragu with Mushrooms
4 Tablespoons Olive Oil
4 Tablespoons butter
1 thin slice, Pork fatback ( I keep mine frozen so I can just shave off a little at a time)
1 sprig thyme
1 sprig rosemary
2 lbs. Rabbit cut into pieces
1 minced Onion
2 gloves garlic, minced
2 minced Carrots
1 cup sliced Mushrooms
1 cup Dry red wine
1 cup vegetable stock
3 Tablespoons Estratto du Pomodoro di Regaleali, or tomato paste
salt and pepper
Grated Parmesan to serve
In a large cast iron dutch oven or heavy bottomed pan with higher sides, heat oil, butter and fatback together.
Pork Fat Back, Olive Oil and Butter
Season rabbit and the coat with flour and brown for 4-5 minutes until golden. Place on clean paper towels to drain and tent in foil to keep warm.
Sautéed Rabbit dredged in seasoned flour
With a medium heat sauté onion, carrots, once carmelized add mushrooms continue to sauté for 2-3 minutes. Add herbs, tomato paste and deglazed with wine, then add stock. Reduce heat to simmer and cook for 20-30 minutes to reduce.
Onions, Carrot, Mushrooms, Thyme and Rosemary
Rabbit Ragu over Pappardelle
This ragu is beatiful over pasta, polenta, or a garlic mashed potato.
Estratto du Pomodoro di Regaleali is a enhanced tomato paste from Sicily. It can be ordered through naturaintasca.it.